Wildview Game Camera White Out Pictures Or LOC In Display

Discussion in 'Game Trail Cameras & Camcorders' started by Head Shot, Feb 12, 2020.

  1. Head Shot

    Head Shot Fawn

    Feb 11, 2020
    Hello Ladies and Gents :
    Yes ladies first :)
    This info is for Wildview game cameras not WildGame cameras.
    I was having a few issues with a Wildview game camera model STC-TGL5IR .
    This actually applies to all wildview game cams with the red flapper lense.
    The issues were the pictures or videos were too bright with almost total white out pics showing some black outline of the objects in the picture. (The issue with the LOC will be talked about next after this )
    Just for addidtional info:
    On some cameras not all when you first put batteries into the game camera and cam is in off power position the display will blink on then off once and remain off till turned back on and also the red flapper lense will raise up and drop so if yours does or doesn't don't worry bout it. (It might be still ok if red filter flapper is stuck needing oiling soooo? Read on.)
    Normally when you do turn the camera on you will see the red flapper flip up and the display blink on with SD if cards in slot or it will display NOSD if no card in slot then go blank till a recording or picture event then itll display the number of events taken.
    If you put camera into pic/video mode without a SD card then it displays NOSD card but internally the cam will record on its memory card but youll need a usb cord to plug into a computer and plugged into the side port inside under cameras cover to view the internal pics/vids. (Cam internal memory isn't very big but will take several pictures and just a few videos before runs out of room so keep pics one burst and videos as short as 15 seconds for additional capacity of events)
    Yes you will find posts where they taped over the infra leds to help cut the infra output and got varying degrees of success but really didn't quite solve satisfactorily.
    What the normal cause for this is the red lense shutter is sticky on its shaft within its bearing housing thus not dropping out of the camera lense = Yes I said that right- The red shaded lense must drop out of the cameras lense to take the normal picture if it doesn't then the camera takes too bright out pictures and videos.
    The infra red lense actually takes more of the infra red leds output and collects the infra led light emitted to the cameras lense for more light if needed at pitch black nights and not always needed on the average dark moon lit night .
    The camera will sense when and flip the red lense up or down as needed.
    Ok lets see if your cameras red lense is at fault.
    As a test set your cam up to take a video and hold it at arms length turned on and after the timer times out watch the camera for record and in normal room with lights on look at the red filter if it doesn't drop down while recording tap or rap on top of camera to get the sticky red filter to drop and when it does let it record you at arms length till done.
    Now go view the SD card and see if too bright till you rapped on cams top and got the red filter to drop which now produced a good video and if it did you just proved to yourself that's your problem.
    Ok now disassemble the cam by prying out the four rubber plus on back exposing the screws and remove screws.
    With batteries out so no accidental shorts remove front cover which will expose the red flipper and its shaft and oil - Think you got it figured out from here so good luck.
    With game cam off just turn the camera upside down and right side up and see if the red lense moves freely up and down easily without tapping on the camera to get it to move.
    If it DOESNT move freely then its in need of a good oiling with a very light wt oil such as WD40 .
    But be warned that if you spray the wd40 youll likely splatter the oil on the lense and red filter causing distortion of pics/vids until cleaned off .
    Also be aware that the red flapper is slid onto the shaft and appears to be able to pull off but its glued or something so it DOES NOT slip off so don't try it as itll damage the shafts housing below with too much upward pull and really mess things up = Trust me I KNOW FROM EXPERIENCE :-(
    Id recommend you simply spray wd40 into a small container and take a needle to collect the oil on and drip it onto the red filters shaft inside or say a shot syringe with a 1 inch needle or longer to suck up and dispense the wd40 oil which is really nice and easily done with no mess.
    Just a tiny drop on the shaft and work flipper up and down and oil again till you get the red lense to move easily by turning the camera bd with flipper on it up and upside down and see if if moves freely by itself.
    If not keep in mind that if you oiled too much and oil is in contact with the plastic outer portion and cam chassis that the oil can cause enough drag if you used a heavier wt oil.
    Blow excess oil out from this area if you see its building up.
    I prefer a very light oil as come winter if too thick it will get thicker and likely stick till thawed so just think bout that before you choose the oil.
    Ok the bad news is if the lense DOES move freely and still takes too bright pics/vids then the electrical unit inside behind the red lense has likely burnt out and - well crap you should have prayed first as its total replacement now.
    Or consider removing the red flapper arm or cut the red wire to it on backside then make sure red flappers down by glue it as an axample and use it as day time which will produce decent pics/videos if sun isn't glaring on the camera and itll even work at night most of the time with moon light but will give total black pics/videos if the red flapper filter was need - but hey itll work most of the time without the red lense if your ok with that during the day and many times at night as well.

    Now its possible your getting too white pics only at extremely close pics/videos of say a deer because its just too darn close to camera say 5 feet and camera decided it didn't need or needed the red filter too and this is because the infra light emitting diodes were so bright for the way too close picture/video which there designed to be used at a distance so keep that in mind or the picture/video
    is all black at night when camera needed the red flipper but it was stuck in down position or units up/down component on bd is defective but in this case normal day operation gives good pics/videos itll be just a night when this happens as a rule if red lense is needed if not then you should get a so so black n white picture of some decent quality.
    Obviously this will vary with the amount of light available to the camera at night.
    Don't assume that even thooo you decide its too dark at night that camera should have used the red lense as you cant see infra red light spectrum or other light spectrums the camera does see and use to get proper lighting..

    This is a message that the camera will display normally if a SD card is in locked position and id first check your card to make sure the slide lock is not in locked postion.
    As a note for all :
    With the SD cards contacts upright postion the slide lock should be up not down for unlocked proper operation.
    If your cards unlocked try another known working SD card just in case you have a defective card.
    If those options didnt solve the LOC issue then its likely the SD card slots contacts inside the cams card unit has dirty contacts shorting the locked card circuit in camera on the card insert bd or the tiny metal spring fingers have got bent making contact.
    You can disassemble as above and remove the main bd which will lift up and out of the SD cards pin socket hat now gives you access to the card slots components.
    If you prefer to you can remove the card units bd by removing the two tiny screws for easier examination and repair.
    You CAN NOT cut the circuit trace to tell cam cards unlocked from my testing so it appears and just my thought not saying its true but appears the card unlock is actually a closed circuit so if you cut the circuit trace to clear short then you actually opened the circuit so cam still says LOC. Again im not saying thats true but sure looks like it from my testing.
    If you cant clear the LOC by the above mentioned then its likely a bad component on the cards bd which would be resisters R128 or R126 or capacitor C68 and last but not likely transitor Q21.
    These are tiny smd components so unless you have a hot air smd rework solder station you wont likely have much luck in replacing those smd components as a normal 15 watt solder pen is too large and even if you did get the job done you probably put too much heat and burnt the bds circuit traces or burnt the new component up with heat so defective at the git go.
    Your better off just replacing the card slot bd from a donor parts cam in reality.
    I probabally missed a pc of info here but hopefully i got the problems and there cause / repairs explained well enough for everybody.
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2020
  2. ojibwa62

    ojibwa62 12 pointer

    Jul 1, 2018
    So many words!

    I have several WG cams with no issues other then one I cause..

    The occasional whiteout or washed on out pic mine are caused by the cam being to low and too close to target animal.

    Thanks for the info sure many will appreciate it.

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