Next step help...

tyshe17

12 pointer
May 4, 2007
2,598
Ok, so I have a long bow, 50#@28", to be used for target shooting and eventually hunting.

I'm needing help on setting up arrows and want some direction to read about tuning. I plan on attending some of the traditional shoots, but little brother is getting married end of March so it my be a few months before that happens.

How far in front of the shelf do you cut arrows? I have a dozen 3555 arrows ready to make up. Preliminary tuning?

I've always shot split finger snap shooting, but would like to consider form/grip choices for hunting and close range accuracy.

Advice or guidance on where to read would be appreciated (got a little lost on some of the traditional forums).
 

BJN

6 pointer
Sep 11, 2009
173
Look for the Masters of the Barebow DVD series. You'll get a visual to go along with explanations.
 

Brutus Hedgeapple

10 pointer
Jul 30, 2002
1,667
South Central Ky.
I only shoot woodies and don't always cut them down. Mainly depends on how they shoot for me. If I find they need cut down, I hope to have wt least 1-1/2 from shelf.

I shoot split finger and use the big knuckle joint on my thumb under the rear of my jawbone as anchor. Whatever you do, do it consistantly, that's where your form will develop.
 

tyshe17

12 pointer
May 4, 2007
2,598
Touché Brutus. I shot loads of traditional and Olympic archery as a kid.

Hunting and the fact that Olympic competition was limited in the SE pushed me to "training wheels" as my dad calls them.

Looking forward to the journey.
 

dpowers

6 pointer
Jun 26, 2009
332
Shelbyville
I have a 50 @ 28 longbow but my draw is 26.5. I can use either 35/55 with the front loaded with 100 gr inserts or 15/35. I tune mine to be point on at 20 yards so they stick out a couple inches.I think the old Easton charts had the tip 1 inch from front of the riser. Some will go with full length arrows to get the spine right just depends on how you shoot and your draw length.

Find a copy of eastons tuning guide online and start there. Lots of books on how to shoot/tune arrows out there. It is not much different than what you did with your compound.

Dave
 

randy grider

12 pointer
Mar 15, 2006
2,434
Burgin, KY
I would start with full length 55/35's, 100 grain insert, 125 grain point, bare shaft (no fletching). Shoot these at 20 yards and see how they fly. If they shoot stiff (to left of aim) add point weight. If they shoot weak (to the right of aim) either reeduce point weight or shorten shaft in 1/4 inch increments untill they hit deadon and straight in. This is assumeing you are a RH shooter. When you get it just right, they will hit where you are looking, and straight in without fletchings. Get there and you have something, especially after fletching. Dont worry about how much hangs over, worry about perfect flight. I would stick with the same weight field points as the broadhead you prefer. Either change the weight with the insert, or shorten the shaft.
 

tyshe17

12 pointer
May 4, 2007
2,598
Shot the first two arrows today.

1 bare shaft, 1 fletched. Both hit right of "aim" but I'm not sure my aim is true and I'm certain my draw isn't settled.

Shots taken at 10-12 yards because that is what the basement allowed me to work with.

I'm gonna do some shooting up close to settle the draw and perhaps adjust my anchor (pointer finger in corner of mouth has always been my anchor) to get the arrow closer to my eye.
 

CSS archer

BBBC Members
Dec 13, 2001
4,728
Central KY
If both hit the same you just need to shoot more until your "eye" adjusts... I shoot different setups, my cut to center bows always shoot right of the non center cuts.. Some people will say the arrow flexes around the riser making no difference. I shoot a lot and when I switch setups there is a difference, but usually a week of shooting the same bow compensates and has me back on track..
 

CSS archer

BBBC Members
Dec 13, 2001
4,728
Central KY
Are you shooting split or 3 under? I shoot 3 under and anchor with my middle finger in corner of my mouth. Has me point on at 20 yards with a 30" arrow. It was great to have that reference coming from compound/sights to trad gear. I just look at where I want to hit now, though I'm sure my subconscious uses the reference of the arrow.

I have also noticed some shooting gloves can alter the left/right impact too.. full finger tips verses open for example, the further the string is from your face, you'll hit left (for a right handed shooter). Always have a backup glove or tab, in case you misplace one, shoot in your backup too...
 

tyshe17

12 pointer
May 4, 2007
2,598
I have a backup on order.

I've always shot split grip. I'm
Considering moving to 3 under but want to try what I'm familiar with first.

If the rain stops I might sneak a few in today.
 

tyshe17

12 pointer
May 4, 2007
2,598
In Olympic style a split grip and low anchor benefitted at longer ranges. I don't think that will prove true with hunting scenarios.
 

CSS archer

BBBC Members
Dec 13, 2001
4,728
Central KY
I learned to shoot split finger, it's more quiet, but I shoot more accurately 3 under. My point on split finger was 40 compared to 20 3 under.
 

randy grider

12 pointer
Mar 15, 2006
2,434
Burgin, KY
It never felt comfortable to me shooting three under, and it always put thearrow "In my way" as I like to concentrate on what im trying to hit, and dont consciously use the arrow to "aim" with. To each their own though. Its no secret that the large percentage of the best shots shoot three under, and I would suspect due to that arrow point sighting system. In a hunting situation I just always felt I had a better grip on my arrow, especially in the old days when I shoot woodies with Mercury speed nocks on them (not a snap nock). Try both, and use what you like.
 


Latest posts

Top