HELP ... super tight screw needs to come OUT!

KYote-Krusher

12 pointer
Jan 12, 2006
3,528
South Central Kentucky
Just got a great deal on a .22 Remington 552 Speedmaster in bad need of a cleaning. It shoots great but has obviously not be cleaned or taken care of in forever. When I pulled the trigger assembly out, there is even a little bit of light rust on one of the components.

In order to clean it all, I need to remove the bottom barrel bolt and it is in there as tight as any I've ever seen. I've been soaking it in penetrating oil and tapped it fairly hard with the right size screwdriver in the slot but I can't get it to budge.

It's so tight that I'm wondering if somebody didn't put red Locktite on it. If they did, you are supposed to be able to break that seal by heating it to 500 degrees and I have a digital soldering iron that I can do that with but before I do, I'm wondering if that might damage the wood forearm or something underneath it?

If this were a vehicle or a piece of machinery, I'd have it out of there in a minute one way or another but I don't want to mess up this really nice rifle if I can possibly avoid it. If worse comes to worst, I guess I can drill the screw and get it out with and ez-out or just re-tap it but I sure don't want to.

Any information or suggestions on how to remove that screw without scratching the wood or screwing something up would be greatly appreciated.
 

carnivore

12 pointer
Nov 17, 2007
10,209
Ky
If it has red locktite soak it in brake cleaner for a day. Might want to research in case some brake cleaners are better than others for this task. Looks like acetone will work as well
 
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KYote-Krusher

12 pointer
Jan 12, 2006
3,528
South Central Kentucky
I've had awful good luck with an impact driver, right size bit, firm down pressure, and a light touch on the trigger.

Thanks Barney, I'll give that a try first then I'll try BW's idea if that won't do it. I let it soak overnight and just tried it again with the regular screwdriver but it won't budge. Here's a picture of it and you can see that I've already got the screw slot messed up a little.

20220113_062613 resize.jpg

The screw slot looks like it is a bit concave .... I'm wondering if gunsmiths use screwdrivers with a slightly rounded profile to get more grip?
 

KYote-Krusher

12 pointer
Jan 12, 2006
3,528
South Central Kentucky
Were you using an impact screw driver when you tapped it pretty hard? https://www.lowes.com/pd/TEKTON-1-2...8kxIFSR0ffViO_sU3qEaAn4XEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

If I was going to heat it I would be sure to use an old fashioned impact screw driver and hammer as I heat it up. This might free it at a lower temp.
I would leave the forearm on before risking wood damage with to much heat.


Thanks BW, I do own one of those but mine is really powerful and I've been a little afraid to use it but I'll sure try it if I can't get it any other way. The trick will be making sure it doesn't jump out of the slot when I hit it and scratch something up ... what I need is 3 hands!

As I understand it, that screw has to come out to get to the bolt and firing pin as well as removing the barrel itself so I don't have much choice but to get it out.
 

Little FR

12 pointer
Nov 10, 2021
2,291
West Kentucky
Thanks Barney, I'll give that a try first then I'll try BW's idea if that won't do it. I let it soak overnight and just tried it again with the regular screwdriver but it won't budge. Here's a picture of it and you can see that I've already got the screw slot messed up a little.

View attachment 96515
The screw slot looks like it is a bit concave .... I'm wondering if gunsmiths use screwdrivers with a slightly rounded profile to get more grip?

I would sacrifice a screwdriver and try rounding it to profile. Just keep tapping on it to try to shock it. Once you strip them out it’s not bad to remove with vice grips and heat but drilling the head off without marring stock is a serious risk.
 

barney

12 pointer
Oct 11, 2005
16,783
Thanks Barney, I'll give that a try first then I'll try BW's idea if that won't do it. I let it soak overnight and just tried it again with the regular screwdriver but it won't budge. Here's a picture of it and you can see that I've already got the screw slot messed up a little.

View attachment 96515
The screw slot looks like it is a bit concave .... I'm wondering if gunsmiths use screwdrivers with a slightly rounded profile to get more grip?
Be sure to use a good impact rated bit. You sure don't want a bit to break and ruin that beautiful wood. Flat bits are notorious for breaking. Another word of advice.. if you get the screw to start moving with the impact, finish removing it with a screwdriver to avoid the bit slipping and hitting the wood.
 

bigbonner

12 pointer
Aug 5, 2015
4,026
That screw has to come out to take the rest of the gun apart. I had to take mine apart to repair it .
There is a Youtube video of how it all comes apart.
If you had a Hammer screwdriver it would probably do the trick . I have one and rarely use it .
 

KYote-Krusher

12 pointer
Jan 12, 2006
3,528
South Central Kentucky
That screw has to come out to take the rest of the gun apart. I had to take mine apart to repair it .
There is a Youtube video of how it all comes apart.
If you had a Hammer screwdriver it would probably do the trick . I have one and rarely use it .


It's really a nice .22, I like everything about the way it shoots ... tried it out at 57 yards (+/-) with just the iron sights and the first 3 shots were high left but about a 2 1/2" group, second three shots, I adjusted my aim point and got all three in a less than 2" group. That was on a rest with some 20 year old ammo and I can't see worth a hoot, so by the time I get it cleaned up, load it with new ammunition and put some kind of scope on it; I plan on being a squirrel's worst nightmare! :D
 

bigbonner

12 pointer
Aug 5, 2015
4,026
It's really a nice .22, I like everything about the way it shoots ... tried it out at 57 yards (+/-) with just the iron sights and the first 3 shots were high left but about a 2 1/2" group, second three shots, I adjusted my aim point and got all three in a less than 2" group. That was on a rest with some 20 year old ammo and I can't see worth a hoot, so by the time I get it cleaned up, load it with new ammunition and put some kind of scope on it; I plan on being a squirrel's worst nightmare! :D
I like the one I have . I bought it over 15 years ago at court day . I bought it cheap and had not shot the gun.
When I got home the gun shot really good but it would hang up . I threw it in my closet and left it there until lately when my grandson and I was shooting . I got the old gun out and took it apart , the gun was really dirty and the bolt was not in the best shape and was causing the hang ups. I finally found one on Ebay for around $60 . I put it in and it shoots like new now. They are good shooting guns.
 

bluegrassDan

6 pointer
Dec 17, 2008
136
When you think there is red thread locker on a screw, if you cannot soak the screw in acetone or MEK, as in this case, use a soldering iron. Hold the soldering iron on the head of the screw for a few minutes and try to back it out or tighten it a little more. You have to use the correct size blade on the screw driver, but eventually, if it is just thread locker, it will get soft enough to let go and not damage the wood. A cheap $25 wood burning set from Hobby Lobby will work as well.
 

Dark Cloud

12 pointer
Aug 14, 2009
5,177
Lawrence Co.
I would mask off around the screw ,pretty good,I would try fifty ,fifty transmission fluid and acetone,let soak over night .If it still wouldn’t move either way,I would hold a soldering gun ,on the screw head until ,I could get it loose.
 


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