chainsaw advice?

[corndogggy]

I want a new saw, would like to stay at about $400. Want it 20", with a good reliable oiling system. Thinking about something like this:

http://www.jonsered.ws/Jonsered_2152.htm

http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-51154/Detail

http://www.amickssuperstore.com/Stihl_MS_280_Chainsaw_p/stihl%20ms%20280%20chainsaw.htm

Any thoughts or other ideas? I have about 100 trees in about 2 acres and lots of them are down or halfway there, need to clean the place up.

[killinmammals]

I have a huskavarna(sp?) that is probably near 15 years old. I know my dad bought it shortly after we moved to the country and it has been used and beaten and still keeps kickin. Only thing we have ever done is have it serviced every couple years and keep up with chain maintenace and no problems what so ever. Not sure what one would cost you now but they are great saws!

[RutNBuck]

i have had a jonsered and they are indeed good saws BUT i currently have a Stihl and its an awesome saw the new saws dont require any tools to remove/tighten the chain its done with a self tightener wheel (thumb wheel) pretty niffty set up...EITHER saw are good ones but dont over look the latest Stihl line of saws

[RocketRider]

Huskys & Stihls are the best bet in my book. Can't go wrong with either one!

Dig~

[BadDuck]

One word..................




STIHL!

[daking]

stihl. Now what was your question?

I've got a couple of other brand saws...an old Remington, a Poulan and a McCulloch. If they weren't free they wouldn't be worth what I paid for them.

Get the Stihl

[Highbow]

Stihl is all we ever buy for our right of way cutting, they tried a few other brands over the years but nothing held up to everyday cutting other than the STIHL.

[KYHUNTER14]

Another vote for Stihl here.

[massive horns]

Huskys & Stihls are the best bet in my book. Can't go wrong with either one!

Dig~

Ditto..............

[pentail]

we had to pick up a new saw today (someone relieved one of ours from the back of our truck:mad:, scum).

We looked at all of em and went with a Husqvarna (sp?) Came down to them or stihl, just liked the feel of the husky better

[MikeKy]

Huskys & Stihls are the best bet in my book. Can't go wrong with either one!

Dig~

I'm 100% in agreement. Had a Stihl for years but it finally got to where it wouldn't start and no shop seemed to be able to fix it. Replaced it with a Husqvarna and it's been great. Starts great and runs great. Gave the Stihl to my SIL and it starts for him on the second pull everytime. :eek: Still won't start for me.:confused:

[Art]

I have a Husqvarna Rancher 55 and all my other friends with Stihls envy it.:D

I've had Stihl's and they are great saws but I I've been converted. It's kind of like Ford vs. Chevy.

[JDMiller]

I went through buying a new chainsaw thing just recently. I was needing a good trim saw ..14" or 16" bar... ended up buying a Stihl. I too was considering a Husqvarna or even a Jonsered.... anything but a Poulan.

Researched it a little... found out Husqvarna owns Jonsered and Poulan. Also stated on a few forums the Husqvarna line through "box" stores ..Lowes ..Tractor Supply .. internal motor components are different than the same models sold at independent Husqvarna dealers. Dont know if this is true but makes you think a little on the smaller Husqvarnas being the same as the Poulan Pro series. In my opinion Huskvarna is not what they use to be after they expanded their distribution to the "box stores". Even one of our local dealers dropped them when they started doing this. Husqvarna has had a good reputation... hopefully their larger saws are manufactured to higher standards of what their known for.

Stihl is still sold exclusively by independent dealers... prices are comparable to Husqvarna...and at work we use only Stihl chainsaws and concrete saws. I know first hand their tough to take the abuse we give them. Theres a lot of models pending use but for the size bar & saw your wanting to buy... I'd give the FarmBoss a hard look. I bought the 170 which use to be listed as the 017... starts easy.. runs good and will do more than I needed.

Another brand no one has mentioned is Dolmar. My father-in-law has an old Sachs-Dolmar that was his primary saw when he heated his by wood only. Still runs like a top and tough. Just dont see many around these parts.

http://corporate.husqvarna.com/index.php?p=about&s=history&t=timeline&afw_lang=en

Check out the timeline.... Husqvarna bought Jonsered in 1979 and Poulan in 1986.

[CTFSHWHISKER]

old husqs are good,i wouldn't pay for the new ones,when i quit the business i seen alot with piddly crap that looked like the poulan stuff,loose carbs,muffler bolts stripped out oil pumps wouldn't work,but they pay good money on warranty...go with a stihl,get a big motor put the 20" bar on it then if you need a bigger cut just get a bar and chain,plus it will peform much better,like 225 on a 18ft boat,,sachs dolmar held up really good for us as rental units too..

[corndogggy]

Well, are there any particular models that you guys recommend? Put it this way, worst case, I'm going with a Husky 455 from Lowes, because I have a 20% off coupon and can get one for $320. If I can stay close to $400 and get a significantly better saw elsewhere, I will. I just can't tell what would make one better, regardless of the brand name. I hate looking at brand names and getting into the "Ford vs. Chevy" debate, with no concern about what's actually under the hood. There are pro level Husky's, entry level Stihl's, and everything in between.

My biggest concern is that the more "pro" oriented saws apparently have adjustable oilers, and I can't tell for sure if the Husky 455 does. I don't know how big of a deal it is, but at the same time, I've heard that the 455 has had some oiler problems, but I can't back that up. The oiler on the 455 is my biggest concern. Otherwise, I can't see why I wouldn't want this one.

The nicer saws also apparently have magnesium crank cases, and I'm not sure how big of a deal this is or which ones have them.

As for the idea that the same model in box stores are different than expensive dealers, you'll see that excuse everywhere. Refrigerators, tires, printers... most any product you can imagine. Smaller stores without much buying power have to justify their higher prices somehow. Usually it's the same exact thing but there will be an extra digit on the end of a model number from the ones at the box stores so the dealers can say that it's different. We went through this with a laser printer for my wife's attorney office. Office Depot had this printer for $600. Sam's Club across the road had the same exact thing for $360. They tried to say how different it was, but it wasn't, was the same exact thing, I even called the manufacturer to confirm it.

[corndogggy]

http://www.speedwaysales.com/product_info.php?products_id=948&c=11

That Echo looks pretty sweet too. It's got a larger engine than the 455, but otherwise I don't know what to look for. I like the tip guard idea.

Apparently you can get the same thing with a 24" bar for the same amount of cashola. I'm kinda digging it.

http://www.speedwaysales.com/product_info.php?products_id=168

[raktrakr]

Its worth the 20% NOT to buy it at lowes. Go with a dealer,reason being some(not all) service people frown on servicing boxstore products and generally shove them to the back burner. I bought a Stihl Brush cutter/weed eater from a dealer several years ago and after a few years I started having problems with it,it would run 10 min and shut off. Come to find out,it had a recall on the coil pack but the recall warranty had run out by a month or two, the dealer fixed it for labor only,$20. Pretty good deal since the coil was about a $60 item

[Crockett]

I've only had 2 saws in my short lifetime so far. A craftsman - which I have used for 15 years and now a Stihl. I finally had to upgrade and I went with a Stihl. Had to pay a little more for it but everything that I read and based on word of mouth it seemed like it made the most sense. I love using the Stihl saw. If I had enough trees that were begging to be cut down I'd be using that saw every day.

[Art]

I don't think I agree with everything written here. You can get a Husqvarna saw at places other than Lowes if that bothers you. A saw from Lowes is going to be the same saw from another store. I seriously doubt they have production saw A and production saw B for different retailers.

I'm not going to sit here and make up stuff as to sway your decision. A Stihl is a fine saw, no doubt about it, I've owned them. I just wouldn't trade my Husqvarna for one. I bought my saw at Lowes, which I felt was smarter. I can go to Lowes on Sundays or at 8:30 at night to buy Husqvarna brand products and accessories if needed, try doing that at a small shop.

I think with a 20% off coupon, you'd be crazy NOT to go to Lowe's and get one of the baddest Huskies they have there. Otherwise, you'll probably pay 25%-30% more for a comparable Stihl, and chances are it's not going to be a better saw.

Watch that show 'Axmen' and look at their saws.

[Brewtus]

My response would be a Stihl. I really can't compare it to others. My mother bought one for my dad in 1977. It's the only saw we have ever owned. It's built like a tank. Whenever we go to the farm to work, the landowner always says to bring the Stihl. We use it for all the "big" projects.

[corndogggy]

Can anybody tell me what FEATURES to look for, regardless of brand name?

Do I really need a magnesium crank case? Is a tip guard nice or dumb? Does the decompression switch work as great as they say? Do I need an oiler with a manual override? Do I really need an adjustable oiler? That kind of thing. The only saw I've ever owned is an 18" 40cc Wal-Mart special that was very basic.

[Art]

Can anybody tell me what FEATURES to look for, regardless of brand name?

Do I really need a magnesium crank case? Is a tip guard nice or dumb? Does the decompression switch work as great as they say? Do I need an oiler with a manual override? Do I really need an adjustable oiler? That kind of thing. The only saw I've ever owned is an 18" 40cc Wal-Mart special that was very basic.


IMO, you don't need ANY of that stuff. I see that some of the new saws offer tool-less chain adjustment, which would be nice I guess.

Tip guards are gay. Just keep your oiler cleaned and full of oil.

[JDMiller]

Well, are there any particular models that you guys recommend? Put it this way, worst case, I'm going with a Husky 455 from Lowes, because I have a 20% off coupon and can get one for $320. If I can stay close to $400 and get a significantly better saw elsewhere, I will. I just can't tell what would make one better, regardless of the brand name. I hate looking at brand names and getting into the "Ford vs. Chevy" debate, with no concern about what's actually under the hood. There are pro level Husky's, entry level Stihl's, and everything in between.


Cordoggy.... not trying to sway you from Huskvarnas by any means. I just bought a new saw a few weeks ago and went through the same thing. What I stated on the "box store " brands is information you can google for yourself ... how true it is.. take it for what its worth. All I can say... between this and word of mouth from people who use chainsaws on a regular basis... Stihl was highly reccomended.

In my opinion on chainsaws is like a lot of other tools.... just really how much you going to use it. The other thing is bar size... a saw to run a 20 inch bar is going to add a little weight and wont be the handiest for small jobs. For general use its hard to beat a 16" or even a 14".... either one can cut some pretty decent size trees. All the other bells & whistles...like quick adjust chain tensioners, adjustable oilers..ect.. just depends on what you want to spend. On a saw the size your looking at...the compression release might be the one thing I would opt for. For most homeowners...occasional use saws will fit the bill and I cant really justify spending $50 bucks more between adjusting the chain by a small wheel vs loosening two nuts and turning a screw. It will just boil down to what you want or really need.

The other thing I looked at..and Art made a point was parts availabillity. Bars, chains, air filters and the like are easily found at Tractor Supply..Lowes..Home Depot..wherever. My concern was wanting a good saw I dont have to crank my guts out on to get started and I plan on keeping it for a long time. My experience with Lowes...they might be cheaper but when you walk out with it its yours. The warranty wont last long and at some point it will possibly need attention to the motor or chain brakes. I have a little more faith in the dealers to resolve these issues than the big chain stores.

As far as price... I bought the Stihl $10 bucks cheaper from a dealer than Husqvarna from Lowes. Basically identical saws/features just different brands. On the larger saws... I dont think you will find much difference.

You asked about models.... heres a link with pricing around Paducah for comparison. In a Stihl with your price range...I would really consider the FarmBoss. Bar sizes range from 16-20 and the ones I've been around.. their a heck of a saw.

www.stihldealer.net/productdetails-dealer-016211-prodid-545-toplvl-2-catid-2-subcat-2-catprods-39.aspx (http://www.stihldealer.net/productdetails-dealer-016211-prodid-545-toplvl-2-catid-2-subcat-2-catprods-39.aspx)

Goodluck with whatever brand you choose.

[KYHUNTER14]

Stihl 290 is a good saw. I agree with JD though, I would look into getting a 16 or 18 inch bar though. 18 inch should be plenty big enough.

[slickhead slayer]

Can anybody tell me what FEATURES to look for, regardless of brand name?

Do I really need a magnesium crank case? Is a tip guard nice or dumb? Does the decompression switch work as great as they say? Do I need an oiler with a manual override? Do I really need an adjustable oiler? That kind of thing. The only saw I've ever owned is an 18" 40cc Wal-Mart special that was very basic.

You can't go wrong with either a Stihl or a Husky, its just preference. If you look at loggers, they almost all use Stihl or Huskys.
What features do you need? A tip guard is a safety item, that prevents kickbacks. Kickbacks happen when you hit the tip, or cut with the tip. A tip guard prevents this. But there are things you may want to do, that requires you take it off. Like hinging trees to make clearcuts. Most saws don't have them, its just an added safety feature.
I have a Stihl, and my uncle has a Husky. he has the decompression switch, I don't. I do think its a good feature. Its tough sometimes when you first start to override the compression when you don't have the decompression switch. But once again, you don't have to have it.
But as for features, the decompression switch is one feature I would want if buying a new saw. get a Husky or stihl, and you won't be disapointed.

[corndogggy]

I would look into getting a 16 or 18 inch bar though. 18 inch should be plenty big enough.

I've used an 18" over the course of 20 years... an "Eager Beaver", and a Poulon, so I know what that size feels like. Just wanting something a little bigger, as I have several big trees down. One is still standing, and it's 42" at the base. I really wouldn't even mind a 24", but I have carpal tunnel and I'm afraid the 33% weight increase would be very noticable on the smaller jobs. No way am I downsizing, 18" is the absolute minimum I'd consider, 20" seems like a good compromise.

[reivertom]

One word..................




STIHL!


WHAT HE SAID!!!!!

[12 pointer]

One word..................




STIHL!

I have a Stihl MS290 Farm Boss that I think so much of it stays in the basement in a back room. No comparison on the market. 50:1 oil-gas mix ratio gives you super cutting time.

[lab]

I have one of the older Stihl Farm Boss saws. My step-dad has one as well along with a MS170 for light work. We have had no problems with them other than regular maintenance stuff.

It all boils down to get what you want and what will best suit your needs. Kind of like bows.

[corndogggy]

50:1 oil-gas mix ratio gives you super cutting time.

Why would the oil mix ratio affect the cutting time?

[GSP]

Why would the oil mix ratio affect the cutting time?


A 50:0 will cut at top speed for about 30 45 seconds.

[JDMiller]

I have a Stihl MS290 Farm Boss that I think so much of it stays in the basement in a back room. No comparison on the market. 50:1 oil-gas mix ratio gives you super cutting time.

When I was in highschool throughout the fall for several years.. I'd help a good friend of mine fire his tobacco barns. I'd meet up with him and jump into a old chevy 4wd and make our rounds. He was the type to not take very good care of any of their equipment. They had plenty of barns / sheds to park their tractors but usually they were just left where they got off them. With any luck they might stick a can over an upright muffler to keep the rain out but even that was rare.

So.... in the bed of that old chevy rode a Stihl Farmboss. Depending if it slid under the toolbox it stayed in the weather 24-7 -365 days a year. We would pull up to the barn and regularly have to saw a few of the slabs to stack for a run of sawdust. We would pull that saw out and give it a crank or two and it would run like a top. I dont ever remember it not starting. It looked like crap from the years of that abuse but it had to be the toughest chainsaw I ever saw. They ran quite a few head of cattle and also burnt wood for heat in their stripping sheds. It's no tellin how many trees that old saw cut for firewood or off fences.

[corndogggy]

A 50:0 will cut at top speed for about 30 45 seconds.

I just don't understand, is more oil or less oil better? Also, I don't understand why it makes any difference... isn't the oil in the gas just for lubrication? Why does this affect the cutting time? Heat? Does more or less oil contribute to additional heat or something?

[GSP]

Too much oil bogs down the engine, too little burns it up.

Yes, motor will run faster with less oil, but it'll burn up engine

[corndogggy]

Well... just talked to a few dealers. From what I gather...

the Husky 455 has an easy-start decompression valve while the Stihl MS 290 does not.

The Husky may have the tool-less chain adjustment while the Stihl does not. I think they changed and the new Husky's have this but the old ones don't.

The Husky will save me $60 for the 20" version as compared to the Stihl.

The Stihl supposedly has bumper spikes while the Husky doesn't.

Even if I bought a Stihl from a local dealer, if it broke right now, they are all at least a month backed up which means I'd be without a saw for probably 6 weeks.

Both have a 50:1 fuel/oil ratio, both have anti-vibration stuff, etc.

Everything else seems to be very similar. Seems like it's kinda like, either pay $320 and get a Husky 455 with a decompression valve, or pay $380 and get a Stihl 290 with bumper spikes. Apparently the next significant step up in saw run around $600 so I imagine I'll be getting one of these.

[Art]

Well... just talked to a few dealers. From what I gather...

the Husky 455 has an easy-start decompression valve while the Stihl MS 290 does not.

The Husky may have the tool-less chain adjustment while the Stihl does not. I think they changed and the new Husky's have this but the old ones don't.

The Husky will save me $60 for the 20" version as compared to the Stihl.

The Stihl supposedly has bumper spikes while the Husky doesn't.

Even if I bought a Stihl from a local dealer, if it broke right now, they are all at least a month backed up which means I'd be without a saw for probably 6 weeks.

Both have a 50:1 fuel/oil ratio, both have anti-vibration stuff, etc.

Everything else seems to be very similar. Seems like it's kinda like, either pay $320 and get a Husky 455 with a decompression valve, or pay $380 and get a Stihl 290 with bumper spikes. Apparently the next significant step up in saw run around $600 so I imagine I'll be getting one of these.

No spikes on the Husky? Mine has them.:confused:

From what I gather, the Husky 455 is the updated model of the older 55 Rancher, the saw I have. I don't think you'd regret buying this model. Everyone who has ever used my saw is very impressed with it. I normally use my saw a lot in the fall and I'll just leave it in the garage for 9 months straight without starting it. I used it earlier this week using some very old gas I have and it ran like a top as always. Honestly, I like my saw so much that I bought a Husky weedeater and lawnmower too.:D

[corndogggy]

Yeah, I think I'm going to get the Husky 455. "IF" I feel the need to get something nicer, I think I would get a Stihl MS 361 professional, I've talked to some dealers about it and apparently I can get the 20" version of that saw for $550 if I showed up with cash. I just don't see how the Stihl 291 is nicer than the Husky 455, it's practically the same thing, except for more money and it's lacking the decompression valve.

http://www.stihldealer.net/productdetails-dealer-016211-prodid-547-toplvl-2-catid-2-subcat-2-catprods-41.aspx

[corndogggy]

No spikes on the Husky? Mine has them.:confused:

Errr... I guess maybe it does. Husky's site doesn't mention them, and Stihl's site specifically pointed them out. But now that you mention it, I can see them, one can easily be seen below the bar here:

http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/storage/Husqvarna/product/large/455_Rancher_H110-0115_149.jpg

[Art]

Errr... I guess maybe it does. Husky's site doesn't mention them, and Stihl's site specifically pointed them out. But now that you mention it, I can see them, one can easily be seen below the bar here:

http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/storage/Husqvarna/product/large/455_Rancher_H110-0115_149.jpg


I call them "The dog":D. Took me a minute to make sure I knew what you were talking about.

[maxcam]

Ive got a Husqvarna Model 51 with an 18 inch bar....Its an older saw but it has been a great one.......I havent had a moments problem with it, it starts easy and has plenty of power........Too much saw for someone inexperienced......If you are going to be cutting down or up alot of trees I would recommend at least an 18 inch bar.....If you want a saw just to do clean up with you can get by with a smaller saw.....

I dont know much about new saws, when I compared Husky to Stihl when I was in the market, there wasnt much comparison......The Husky out cut anything in its class........

For what its worth I noticed alot of the the loggers on Ax Men (History Channel) use Husky's.......

[turkeytalker]

I had a 351 Husky lock up on me once tighter than a wedge,unscrewed the spark plug and poured 10-30w in and let set for a few days.Poured all the oil i could out and let gas set for a couple days and poured it out.Filled her up and she ran until it was crushed by a backhoe bucket,i still got $50 for it on the purchase of a new one. Local dealers are the way to go and buy a Husky, you wont be disappointed.


By the way i think the Husky locked up from using stale gas,be sure to shake 2 cycle mix before use;)

[aceoky]

Huskys & Stihls are the best bet in my book. Can't go wrong with either one!

Dig~

Exactly, I've owned both and both were great, own a husky now (not sure how many years) and it's "very well used" and does what is needed every time....!!

[corndogggy]

For what its worth I noticed alot of the the loggers on Ax Men (History Channel) use Husky's.......

Yeah but those guys are running $1,000+ saws. Even the ones that aren't Husky's are expensive... apparently one dude is using a Jonsered CS 2171... retails for $1,019. Apparently the Husky 357XP has been shown, I imagine it's about the cheapest one.

[CTFSHWHISKER]

if you aren't logging on a daily basis either will probably suffice your needs.you did mention the stihl shop being backed up a month,most of it isn't stihl stuff probably:) just kidding.but when you get it at lowes you don't take it back there to get it fixed,you will take it to another lawn and garden shop who will be backed a month or more.i wasn't knocking the husky at all i was just giving an opinion based on my experience with them.they are good still but not near as good as what their name was built on years ago.i can say this in 10 years of service work if a stihl came in it was usually junk from no oil,the huskys were in regularly for bolts stripped out in the plastic, oiler gears stripped off,gas tank seams come apart,and those pesky de compression valves carboned up so they wouldn't run.and cylender bolts stripped out.and those no tool tensioners are crap,they made them to sell more bars and chains when the chain flies off it ruins both 90%of the time..
some on here hit it,they don't build a pro saw and a lowes saw,cheaper to bring them all down to the cheap level of mass production and throw em in the trash when they don't start.

[12 pointer]

Why would the oil mix ratio affect the cutting time?
not all saws are desiged to run that lean. They run extremely high RPMs. Thus, faster cutting time.

[carpenterguy]

i own a ms250 stihl and love it. been roughing in and i mean roughing it for over 3 years. been dropped beat ran over and is still going strong. Only problem is it's only 18". If i were you i would definitely consider the MS260. It is a professional line still that will stand the test buddy. I used to work at NAPA here in Burkesville and we sell them and i must say i've seen some 260's take some real abuse. Not to mention they have great power and cut rather fastly. Hope this can be of some help

[Jim in Annville]

Stihl!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[corndogggy]

If i were you i would definitely consider the MS260.

Isn't that more of a climbing saw for small limbs though?

[corndogggy]

you did mention the stihl shop being backed up a month,most of it isn't stihl stuff probably:) just kidding.

No, you're right, most of it is lawn mowers. The chainsaw dealers around here only do that as a secondary supplemental business, that's not their main line of work. I don't see any evidence that a chainsaw bought there would get fixed any quicker. I've seen $6,000 ZTR mowers bought from the local dealer just sit out in the weather for weeks while other folks are getting fixed. They're not going to drop everything and work on my little chainsaw when they have big money repairs lined up, so I'm not going to use the "better service" argument when deciding.

[JDMiller]

some on here hit it,they don't build a pro saw and a lowes saw,cheaper to bring them all down to the cheap level of mass production and throw em in the trash when they don't start.


I'd say that is correct..... a lot of stuff is cheaper to replace than to rebuild. Just searching the net.... I did'nt realize how many parts interchange between the Husqvarnas and the Poulans, Partners & Jonsered. Chainsaws are getting like MTD & AYP on lawnmowers... one company manufactures / designs / produces and basically other than the color and stickers... their all the same.

Just a sample... theres a lot more including replacement bars & chains, carb kits , starter rope assemblys.. ect.

http://farmex.now.tc/catalog/product...oducts_id=3151 (http://farmex.now.tc/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=3151)

www.mfgsupply.com/ChainsawEngPou.html (http://www.mfgsupply.com/ChainsawEngPou.html)

[C.L.Button]

Stihl.

I have a built 044 that is about 15yrs old. There is no telling how many millions of board foot lumber that saw has cut. Other than buying maint. items, it has never failed me. ;)

I have many of their products. A blower, weedeater, hedge trimmer, and trim saw.

[12 pointer]

Do yourself a favor, buy that Stihl. Also, buy the small orange 2 stroke oil bottles made by stihl that mixes with one gallon of gas. and you won't have to worry about getting it serviced. Mine is 7 years old. NEVER been to the shop!

[12 pointer]

Stihl.


I have many of their products. A blower, weedeater, hedge trimmer, and trim saw.

you have some serious cash tied up in those. And you get your moneys worth too!

[C.L.Button]

you have some serious cash tied up in those. And you get your moneys worth too!

VERY true. The weedeater, blower, and trim saw are all over 20yrs old. When I worked in the Motorcycle industry alot of my dealer contacts had second lines of power equipment. 9 out of 10 sold Stihl products. I have seen them put thru circumstances that you wouldn't believe. :eek: :D

[corndogggy]

I'm going to check out a local Stihl dealer at lunch, but just out of curiosity, I called Husqvarna directly and spoke to customer service, asking them about saws from Lowes. They said there is no way possible that the saws at Lowes has interior parts that are different than the seemingly same saw from an indepent dealer. They said the only difference at all is that you can buy more professional oriented saws at an independent dealer, plus if you don't know what you're doing they're more apt to explain everything and go over all the different functions, while Lowe's just gives you a box and sends you out the door, but that's the only difference, he said it's the same exact saw. He said the only product they have that this could be a possibility is some of the lawn mowers, apparently they have nicer lawn mowers that are kind of dumbed down for Lowes. He did say that this particular model, the Husky 455, the only problem he's heard about that was consistent at all is that sometimes the chain will fall off because the sproket is a standard "spur" type, and most all saws with this type of sproket will have similar problems. Supposedly you can order a more professional type of sproket that won't fall off and swap them. I assume this happens if you don't have proper chain tension and are running it while pretty loose but I'm not sure.

But yeah they did confirm that there's a bunch of rumors going around that rings, pistons, etc. are different for Lowe's or whatever, but like I suspected, he said that is just not true and not possible.

[KYBOY]

Ive been cutting firewood and timber(not commercially) for a lot of years. Stihl or Husky. Though I have a giant mcullough thats about 20 years old that has NEVER, I repeat NEVER been in the shop or failed to start. I have to keep at least one 20"-24" saw because anything smaller wont cut what I need to have cut. Thats where the mccullough comes in. A small 14" stihl does everything else. When, if ever the big Mccullough dies Im going to get a 26" saw because even the 24" hasnt been able to ring some of the trees Ive fell. I had to wedge em' to get em' over.

[Feedman]

Stihl.
I am on my second Stihl. had a 031. Got is used in 1985, it finally wore out in 2006 and I got a new Stihl 290. I also have a stihl weedeater.

[C.L.Button]

kyboy I run a 34" bar on my 044. It is made by Sugihara. It's 100% Stainless Steel and absolutely bullet proof. They quit importing for a few years but now they are back. Super quality and will outlast a stock bar about 3 to 1. ;)

[corndogggy]

Ok, I caved... picked up the 20" version of one of these at lunch:

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS361.html

It's a baaaaaad mutha trucker. :cool: I really liked the anti-vibration system more than anything, the handles are completely isolated by springs, it doesn't shake the hell out of your hand like other saws. It's lighter yet has more power than the Stihl 290, plus it has the decompresion thingy. The engine is 50% bigger than the one I've got now, yet it's 5 times easier to start. You rev it up and it doesn't feel like it wants to twist out of your hand, it just sounds crazy mean while feeling completely controllable. I'm digging it. Thanks for the suggestions. :cool:


Now my next question is how do you get the knowledge or equipment to be able to do some mild climbing? Not that I want to...

[Art]

Stay with the flock. Baaaaaaaaahhhhhh!:D

[corndogggy]

Stay with the flock. Baaaaaaaaahhhhhh!:D

Yeah I wouldn't have went with a Stihl for a 290 or below, would have just gotten that Husky 455. I got a good deal on this one too.

[12 pointer]

I'm going to check out a local Stihl dealer at lunch, but just out of curiosity, I called Husqvarna directly and spoke to customer service, asking them about saws from Lowes. They said there is no way possible that the saws at Lowes has interior parts that are different than the seemingly same saw from an indepent dealer. They said the only difference at all is that you can buy more professional oriented saws at an independent dealer, plus if you don't know what you're doing they're more apt to explain everything and go over all the different functions, while Lowe's just gives you a box and sends you out the door, but that's the only difference, he said it's the same exact saw. He said the only product they have that this could be a possibility is some of the lawn mowers, apparently they have nicer lawn mowers that are kind of dumbed down for Lowes. He did say that this particular model, the Husky 455, the only problem he's heard about that was consistent at all is that sometimes the chain will fall off because the sproket is a standard "spur" type, and most all saws with this type of sproket will have similar problems. Supposedly you can order a more professional type of sproket that won't fall off and swap them. I assume this happens if you don't have proper chain tension and are running it while pretty loose but I'm not sure.

But yeah they did confirm that there's a bunch of rumors going around that rings, pistons, etc. are different for Lowe's or whatever, but like I suspected, he said that is just not true and not possible.

Corndoggy,
I can tell you that a few years ago, where I was previously employeed, we casted the aluminum pistons for stihl and poulan. Stihl, is by ten times over, harder to accomidate because there specs are so great and there alloy quality has to test right on the money!!!!!!

[12 pointer]

Welcome to the Stihl Family.!!!!!!!!!!!!!:) And yes, the Farm Boss is a heavy joker. Don't know why.



Did you buy the oil that I mentioned????????????

[corndogggy]

Did you buy the oil that I mentioned????????????

Uh, don't remember you mentioning it, I'll have to review. I bought a gallon of Stihl bar oil and several synthetic Stihl motor oil containers that make 2 gallons each. Is that what you were talking about?

[C.L.Button]

the decompresion thingy.

:eek: :rolleyes:

You don't need to use a chainsaw if you can't name the parts thingy's. :D

Buy the Stihl 2cycle oil. It comes in those little orange colored bottles.

Good choice on the saw. Just make sure to run fresh fuel in it. I dump mine after 7 days. I save it to run in the 4 wheeler. The oil helps lube the valve seals. ;)

[corndogggy]

You don't need to use a chainsaw if you can't name the parts thingy's. :D

Hey I got the first part right. :D

[KYBOY]

kyboy I run a 34" bar on my 044. It is made by Sugihara. It's 100% Stainless Steel and absolutely bullet proof. They quit importing for a few years but now they are back. Super quality and will outlast a stock bar about 3 to 1. ;)
Id like to see that. If Im not mistane that 044 is about a 70cc, my mccullough is about a 65cc.It would probably handle a 30" bar just fine but I cant find one without speacial order. Where did you come up with that sugihara?

[Art]

:eek: :rolleyes:

You don't need to use a chainsaw if you can't name the parts thingy's. :D

Buy the Stihl 2cycle oil. It comes in those little orange colored bottles.

Good choice on the saw. Just make sure to run fresh fuel in it. I dump mine after 7 days. I save it to run in the 4 wheeler. The oil helps lube the valve seals. ;)


You telling us that your old Stihl won't run on gas that's over 7 days old? I've run gas that's over 2 years old in my Husky.:D

[JDMiller]

Corndoggy

I'll admit ....I figured you to purchase a Husqpoulanvarna. Glad to see you opted for a real chainsaw.:D

Those little bottles of oil from Stihl their talking about also has a fuel stabilizer in it.


Art.... you have two year old gas/oil mix for your chainsaw??? That Husky cant be seeing much action with the amount of gas your using. Most of us with Stihls bought them to actually cut wood.. you know..use for their intended purpose... not look at, fondle and pronounce the cool name on the side of the saw. :eek:

Just pickin a little;)

[C.L.Button]

Id like to see that. If Im not mistane that 044 is about a 70cc, my mccullough is about a 65cc.It would probably handle a 30" bar just fine but I cant find one without speacial order. Where did you come up with that sugihara?

D&D saws. They build racing saws for loggers all over the country. They are located out in BF Egypt near Salem Indiana. They do UPS too. ;)

[C.L.Button]

You telling us that your old Stihl won't run on gas that's over 7 days old? I've run gas that's over 2 years old in my Husky.:D

Sure it will, BUTTTT I like my stuff to last. After about 4-6 days the oil starts to seperate & break down. BTW I run Premium fuel too. Avgas if I'm gonna be cutting alot. ;)

[Art]

Corndoggy

I'll admit ....I figured you to purchase a Husqpoulanvarna. Glad to see you opted for a real chainsaw.:D

Those little bottles of oil from Stihl their talking about also has a fuel stabilizer in it.


Art.... you have two year old gas/oil mix for your chainsaw??? That Husky cant be seeing much action with the amount of gas your using. Most of us with Stihls bought them to actually cut wood.. you know..use for their intended purpose... not look at, fondle and pronounce the cool name on the side of the saw. :eek:


No, I use it. I did find some gas that I had that was in a back room in my garage one time that I had forgot was there. Rather than pour it out, I used it.

BTW- I'll put my Husqvarna up against a similar Stihl anytime, I can say this because I have.:D My neighbor, who used to run a tree service came over last year to use my Husky to cut a big water maple stump out in his yard, and he has 3 Stihl's. I still give him a hard time, it's almost as much fun as it is poking fun at your alls cult.:D:D

[C.L.Button]

Art.... you have two year old gas/oil mix for your chainsaw??? That Husky cant be seeing much action with the amount of gas your using. Most of us with Stihls bought them to actually cut wood.. you know..use for their intended purpose... not look at, fondle and pronounce the cool name on the side of the saw. :eek:

:eek: LMAOOO :D

My saw has been modified in several ways. It starts every 3rd try when cold, but it is very hard to pull the rope. After it is warm, it's no biggie. When it idles, it sounds like it has a cam in it. :eek: :D It has a different flywheel key in it. The key was machined so that it advances the timing about 3 degrees. The carb jets were drilled out as well as all the internal muffler guts. Oh, it also has a big K&N stack on the carb. It sounds like a small block Chevy when you grab a handfull of throttle. The biggest bar I have ever run on it was a 36". It really doesn't care what size bar you put on it.

It's kind of like running a nitrous injected 502 V8 in a Pinto. :cool:

[corndogggy]

Crazy people:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=db1nexOvYYs&feature=related

[GSP]

Huskys and Stihls are both great saws, can't go wrong with either. That is all you'll see in the log woods.

I have a Stihl, but I would rather have a Chevy engine.;)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/GSP/th_ultimatechainsaw.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v465/GSP/?action=view&current=ultimatechainsaw.flv)

[Art]

Watch that dust on that Stihl.:D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rztm0HM9XzE&NR=1

[corndogggy]

So on that video I posted, how do they climb like that? I know they use climbing spikes on their feet, but what kind of system are they using for the strap around their waist? I have no intention of doing anything that big but I have some limbs that are 10-15 feet high and it would be great if I could access them.

EDIT: Ahhh... nevermind:

http://www.wesspur.com/Spurs/spur_climbing_kit.html

[JDMiller]

I still give him a hard time, it's almost as much fun as it is poking fun at your alls cult.:D:D


Cult.... heck I dont even own a chainsaw. I just had a bet with 12 pointer to see how much cash Corndoggy would drop on a chainsaw. He exceeded our goals. :D

[Art]

Cult.... heck I dont even own a chainsaw. I just had a bet with 12 pointer to see how much cash Corndoggy would drop on a chainsaw. He exceeded our goals. :D

It happens to the best of us.:D

[corndogggy]

Cult.... heck I dont even own a chainsaw. I just had a bet with 12 pointer to see how much cash Corndoggy would drop on a chainsaw. He exceeded our goals. :D

Hey, thanks for the buzzkill. :o :D

[carpenterguy]

Isn't that more of a climbing saw for small limbs though?

no it is actually the saw most professionals use in the woods and while cutting hillsides...Trust Me IT WILL DO THE JOB!!!!;)

[carpenterguy]

Sure it will, BUTTTT I like my stuff to last. After about 4-6 days the oil starts to seperate & break down. BTW I run Premium fuel too. Avgas if I'm gonna be cutting alot. ;)

hate to burst your bubble cl but you're not supposed to run premium in that!!! when i worked at the dealer they said mid grade at max;)

[C.L.Button]

hate to burst your bubble cl but you're not supposed to run premium in that!!! when i worked at the dealer they said mid grade at max;)

Premium or Avgas is all that has ever been in that saw. Remember that it has an advanced flywheel key. IF my saw was stock, I would agree. ;)

[carpenterguy]

Premium or Avgas is all that has ever been in that saw. Remember that it has an advanced flywheel key. IF my saw was stock, I would agree. ;)

sounds like you're on top of things bud:D what ya do with that thing race it circle track:D:Dlmao

[JDMiller]

Hey, thanks for the buzzkill. :o :D

Just foolin.... I am a card carrying member of the flock.... still shiney but not for long.


http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/JDMiller1967/stihl.jpg

[CTFSHWHISKER]

So on that video I posted, how do they climb like that? I know they use climbing spikes on their feet, but what kind of system are they using for the strap around their waist? I have no intention of doing anything that big but I have some limbs that are 10-15 feet high and it would be great if I could access them.

EDIT: Ahhh... nevermind:

http://www.wesspur.com/Spurs/spur_climbing_kit.html

for the limbs you have find a buddy with a bucket truck or flag down a nelson truck and offer em some beer..{cold}
they are part squirrell..i love wtching the stihl timber sports when i used to go to the outdoor shows,it looks to be simple strap around the midsection under the leggs,you just basicly run up the pole and use the strap to keep you from falling backwards.yea right..if you can't find a bucket truck use the spring board method..

[corndogggy]

Yeah apparently it's a rock climbing harness and the strap has a steel wire core for strength and rigidness, so you can easily let off the pressure and increase the height.

[Art]

Just foolin.... I am a card carrying member of the flock.... still shiney but not for long.


http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/JDMiller1967/stihl.jpg


Who'd have though that the guy who told me I didn't use my saw enough has a coat of wax and Armor-all on his!:D:D

[raktrakr]

And passes the "white glove" test too

[corndogggy]

Dang, I've barely had mine a day and it already looks worse than yours. :D I cut for about 7 hours today... jeez I'm worn out.

[JDMiller]

Who'd have though that the guy who told me I didn't use my saw enough has a coat of wax and Armor-all on his!:D:D


That aint nothin..... you should see my lawnmower... tiller... even my truck. My wife says I'm a neat freak..... dont know why.:rolleyes:

[Bigspringhunter07]

I just had my homelite 360 tunedup and serviced.. it was a darn good saw in its day..but parts for them are extremely hard to find now..

[maxcam]

Homelite's have put down many a tree back in the day.......

[shot'm&hook'm]

I'm with the Stihl gang. Awsome saw, twice the power, easy maintenance, and they got that easy start system now that is great for older folks too. Pluss resale value is greater too.

[corndogggy]

Man that Stihl is a gas hog, I've already went through about 6-7 tanks of gas and I've barely had it 2 days. Works great but I must not be doing something right on my horizontal cuts, it doesn't cut as fast as I'd like. Vertical cuts though, holy crap, watch out, it'll just rip through everything real quick. I can't imagine what those Magnums with a competition chain (or even nicer saws) are like.

[carpenterguy]

that saw comes equipped from the factory with a safety chain. if you look it has dogs on it that keep it from cutting with the full tooth!! you have 2 choices..

1. File the dogs down.
2. Buy a professionals chain not the safety consumer chain.

from experience i say throw 30 bucks out and get a good chain...;)

hope this helps ya...and oh yeah if its sucking gas you may want to look into putting a larger sprocket on it so it'll run at a little easier rpm instead of winding up fast and staying on the rev limiter.

[CTFSHWHISKER]

if by horizontal you are cutting the blocks like you would split them it won't cut as fast and it is hard on the saw,they do make a ripping chain for doin that,if you file the safety links down don't go much it will grab and kick if you stick it in the wood before you are ready.

[corndogggy]

if by horizontal you are cutting the blocks like you would split them it won't cut as fast and it is hard on the saw,they do make a ripping chain for doin that

By horizontal I mean as in cutting a tree down in the first place. Once the tree is down horizontally and I make a vertical cut, it goes alot better.

[corndogggy]

that saw comes equipped from the factory with a safety chain. if you look it has dogs on it that keep it from cutting with the full tooth!! you have 2 choices..

1. File the dogs down.
2. Buy a professionals chain not the safety consumer chain.

from experience i say throw 30 bucks out and get a good chain...;)

Ah, that's pretty interesting:

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html

Didn't realize there were so many different kinds. Looks like they all have those "dogs", but the fast cutting ones are a different shape.

[turkeytalker]

Corndoggy, you running it one handed yet? Oh thats right you went with the Stihl:rolleyes:. :)

[GSP]

Ah, that's pretty interesting:

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html

Didn't realize there were so many different kinds. Looks like they all have those "dogs", but the fast cutting ones are a different shape.


Those things you are calling dogs are usually called "rakes". The dogs are the teeth mounted on the motor to dig into the bark at the side of the bar. The rakes clean the cut the teeth make. The shorter the rake, the bigger the bite the cutting tooth can grab. The high speed chains skip teeth to allow the saw to maintain a high RPM since the cutting tooth is grabbing a bigger bite. High quality chains start around $2.00 per inch.

[barney]

Ah, that's pretty interesting:

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html

Didn't realize there were so many different kinds. Looks like they all have those "dogs", but the fast cutting ones are a different shape.

http://www.stihlusa.com/graphics/chainsaws/warning.gif
This symbol indicates that the product has increased risk of kickback injury and is for use only by persons with extraordinary cutting needs and experience and specialized training for dealing with kickback.

Dr's have mad skilz these days! When that skip chain kicked back and hit my neighbor in the face, I would have swore that that was brain material, in the blood running off of his chin. It could have been skull chips though?...............Anyway, you can hardly tell it was a chainsaw accident now. They filled the jagged, 1/2" gap between his eyes and across his forehead somehow, but that nose, with no tip or nostrils, is a dead giveaway. They said they could have fixed that too........if his insurance policy had held up.:rolleyes: Nothin like a fast cuttin chainsaw, to impress your friends and neighbors!

[corndogggy]

Can one kick back out of the clear blue while buried in a log, or is it usually when your tip hits a log while it is spinning?

[C.L.Button]

Can one kick back out of the clear blue while buried in a log, or is it usually when your tip hits a log while it is spinning?

Just get the guys that sharpen your chains to grind off the dogs a tad. Are you aware that Stihl chains are sharpened at different angle's than most other brand chains ? Make sure the guys doing your work know that. It makes a HUGH difference in cutting speed.

As for fuel consumption, have they tuned your saw yet ? Once broke in, it should have a tach set against it, then adj the carb to achive max RPM's. ;)

The air cleaner should be cleaned after each days use. It makes a big difference.

[maxcam]

Just get the guys that sharpen your chains to grind off the dogs a tad. Are you aware that Stihl chains are sharpened at different angle's than most other brand chains ? Make sure the guys doing your work know that. It makes a HUGH difference in cutting speed.

As for fuel consumption, have they tuned your saw yet ? Once broke in, it should have a tach set against it, then adj the carb to achive max RPM's. ;)

The air cleaner should be cleaned after each days use. It makes a big difference.

Dang.....Does he have to take the thing in and have it smog tested too?

I thought he bought a chainsaw, not a Ferrari......:rolleyes:

[carpenterguy]

i'm with ya cl.. we always recommend that the saw be brought back after a few hours of breakin use so it could be tuned to run at top performance.

Husky owners are just jealous cause their dealers want to sell em another saw instead of help em get the best out of the one they just bought;):D

[Art]

i'm with ya cl.. we always recommend that the saw be brought back after a few hours of breakin use so it could be tuned to run at top performance.

Husky owners are just jealous cause their dealers want to sell em another saw instead of help em get the best out of the one they just bought;):D

I think it's more like Husky owners have saws that don't have to treated like babies to run properly. We don't have to have them serviced after every use or run high test gas just so they WILL run.:D

[JDMiller]

One of our assocate directors at work use to be the maintenance director at LBL when it was TVA controlled. TVA had a contract with Stihl for all their operations in 7 states. According to him... the contract included training and maintenance of their saws. As CL stated... new saws would receive a initial break-in period and a rep from Stihl would come back and tach the saw and adjust for max performance. He stated their training to employees demonstrated long operation at maxed out speeds was in their design. The saws would be screamin and he knew something would bound to give way but they never did. He said the abuse they gave the equipment was unbelievable.

He was real impressed with Stihl saws and a lot of it was'nt just their use at LBL. He was involved with TVA's power plants at various locations and their distribution grids. From lineman crews to right of way work it was done by Stihl's. Like a lot of things.... Stihl may or may not still have a contract with them but this says a lot about their performance.

[C.L.Button]

I think it's more like Husky owners have saws that don't have to treated like babies to run properly. We don't have to have them serviced after every use or run high test gas just so they WILL run.:D

Hey Art/Maxcam, I'll put my junky old worn out Stihl up against your new Husky, Echo, Craftsman, Homelite, or any other kind of saw you have anyday. Just name it. :D

[corndogggy]

Well, this is interesting, I tightened the chain last night and it cuts faster on the big stuff and horizontal cuts. Strange. I didn't have that much slack.

[slickhead slayer]

Now that you got your saw, here is another suggestion. Get you some chainsaw chaps. If you have ever seen them demonstrated, they are a must if your cutting much.

[corndogggy]

Now that you got your saw, here is another suggestion. Get you some chainsaw chaps. If you have ever seen them demonstrated, they are a must if your cutting much.

Yeah I have been wondering about them. The local dealer has the Stihl chaps for $69, is that normal? I've already nicked my jeans twice. Didn't cut them but I knew that they were hit.

[maxcam]

Now that you got your saw, here is another suggestion. Get you some chainsaw chaps. If you have ever seen them demonstrated, they are a must if your cutting much.

Ive got a big scar on my left thigh from my Husky......I was clearing a thicket for a food plot and the darn thing kicked back.....I immediatlely left off the throttle and didnt think anything of it.....I felt the bar hit my leg but never felt any pain just the pressure.....later on I went to roll a log over with my left foot to finish cutting it up and noticed the top of my boot was red instead of brown.......I ruined a darn good pair of 6 pocket cargo pants that day ......:mad:

[maxcam]

Yeah I have been wondering about them. The local dealer has the Stihl chaps for $69, is that normal? I've already nicked my jeans twice. Didn't cut them but I knew that they were hit.

Good thing you bought the Stihl......Had it been a Husky we would have been bringing you flowers up here at Jewish after Dr Kutz reattached your leg........;)

Be careful dude......You have a real saw now and they will bite you before you know it.....

[Art]

Hey Art/Maxcam, I'll put my junky old worn out Stihl up against your new Husky, Echo, Craftsman, Homelite, or any other kind of saw you have anyday. Just name it. :D

Hmmmm, let's see. A modded out saw that runs on jet fuel. No thanks, I'll pass. Although it might be a little more fair if you have to run gas that is more than 7 days old.:D

[maxcam]

C.L. put that thing back in the box......You dont want any part of a real saw...............:D

[Art]

C.L. put that thing back in the box......You dont want any part of a real saw...............:D


That will have to be sent back to China to be tuned after the first 2 hours of use. They'll probably just give it a fresh coat of lead.:D

[rick243]

My Dad bought a 55 Rancher when they first came out and it's still going strong. Musta been 25 years ago?? He has been so impressed with it he bought a Husky commercial Z-turn mower 3 years ago.

Here is my Husky 385xp with 36" bar and a Maple burl I sawed up. It is a powerhouse but a little heavy for most work. It is a lot handier with the 27" bar that came with it. I bought it mainly to use with a chainsaw mill attachment. It woulda been nice to have had the small block Chevy saw for this job.:)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b192/rick243/burl4.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b192/rick243/burl5.jpg

[C.L.Button]

Rick those are nice saws. I seriously considered buying one when I bought my 066 Stihl. The weight was what made the difference. If I remember correctly it was about 3.5 lbs more ? That's been many years ago.

Art, the Husky had the lead paint, that's why it weighed more. :p :D

[corndogggy]

Are the stihl chaps good or should I order some Kevlar ones? They cost about the same.

[turkeytalker]

Are the stihl chaps good or should I order some Kevlar ones? They cost about the same.


Stay real close to home if you actually buy a pair of chaps:rolleyes:. Seriously you should make a habit of not sawing on your leg.

[corndogggy]

Stay real close to home if you actually buy a pair of chaps:rolleyes:.

What's that supposed to mean?

The reason I was wondering about them, and the reason I hit my jeans a couple of times, is that the chain brake doesn't stop the chain nearly as fast as my old saw. I got in the bad habit of being able to walk off with it at my side as soon as I let off the gas, because my old saw was completely stopped at that point. This new saw, alot of times the chain will still be moving a little when I do that, and have nicked my jeans a couple of times while walking off. I don't know if I can adjust the chain brake or not.

[trust me]

What's that supposed to mean?



I think he means that strolling around the neighborhood in a pair of chaps might make you look like one of the Village People.

[corndogggy]

I think he means that strolling around the neighborhood in a pair of chaps might make you look like one of the Village People.

They make full wrap-around camoflage ones... they just look like army pants. Besides, my big-ass chainsaw will compensate for any gayness... that's what they're for, right? :D

[slickhead slayer]

Are the stihl chaps good or should I order some Kevlar ones? They cost about the same.

Those Stihl chaps are kevlar. All the safety chaps are kevlar. If you have ever seen them demonstrated, they stop a chainsaw dead, its pretty neat. Most people I know that saw a fair amount have nicked something, and its almost always below the waist. Shins, thighs, ankles, knees, etc. They are well worth the money.

[C.L.Button]

Corndogggy you need to have that brake adjusted. The chain should stop immediately upon you locking that lever, EVEN if it running at 12,000 RPM's. IF it doesn't, then it isn't right.

I too have cut my leg with a saw. I bought a pair of Stihl Chaps just because they didn't make Kevlar back then. I wore them several times till they broke a strap one day. I just never fixed them.

[corndogggy]

Corndogggy you need to have that brake adjusted. The chain should stop immediately upon you locking that lever, EVEN if it running at 12,000 RPM's. IF it doesn't, then it isn't right.

What do you mean by locking the lever? My old saw, you just had to take your finger off the gas and the brake engaged. Does the Stihl have to be manually engaged? They couldn't find the owners manual so I didn't get it until a couple days ago and I haven't went through it all.

[C.L.Button]

What do you mean by locking the lever? My old saw, you just had to take your finger off the gas and the brake engaged. Does the Stihl have to be manually engaged? They couldn't find the owners manual so I didn't get it until a couple days ago and I haven't went through it all.

I am NOT fimiliar with your specific model. Most all Stihl saws I have ever operated work like this,,,,the bar infront of your top handle can be moved forward or backwards. Forwards locks the bar, rearwards unlocks it to allow the chain to slide/cut.

IF I was you, I would completely read that manual before doing any more cutting. ;)

[corndogggy]

I am NOT fimiliar with your specific model. Most all Stihl saws I have ever operated work like this,,,,the bar infront of your top handle can be moved forward or backwards. Forwards locks the bar, rearwards unlocks it to allow the chain to slide/cut.

I figured it worked that way, but I thought it killed the engine when it did, I thought it was for emergencies only, for when it kicked back. Didn't realize you could just push it forward to lock it temporarily. My old saw didn't have this at all, there was a guard but it didn't do anything, the brake just locked up right when you let off the gas, I have just used it way too long and gotten in bad habits apparently.

[maxcam]

Rick those are nice saws. I seriously considered buying one when I bought my 066 Stihl. The weight was what made the difference. If I remember correctly it was about 3.5 lbs more ?

See Art I told you, Stihl is for the lightweights that cant handle a real saw..... :eek::D

[Art]

See Art I told you, Stihl is for the lightweights that cant handle a real saw..... :eek::D


Yep, these stihl guys probably own a log splitter too because they are too weak to swing a maul.:D

[C.L.Button]

See Art I told you, Stihl is for the lightweights that cant handle a real saw..... :eek::D

Yep, I'm just a lightweight. Come carry me around the block. :p :D

[C.L.Button]

Yep, these stihl guys probably own a log splitter too because they are too weak to swing a maul.:D

Nope, I don't own a splitter. I have a stove that doesn't need girly size pieces. :D

[corndogggy]

We used to have a tiny woodburning stove when I was growing up. I had to manually split 17 truckloads of wood every winter. That sucked. I got damn good at it though. One thing I always wondered though, is why they sell those stupid metal mauls. They even sell the same ones today. The head isn't shaped right and the handle negatively affects the balance. The blade is too wide, too flat, too big of an angle, and the whole thing is too heavy. Last but not least, the metal handle doesn't kill vibrations so after about 10 swings your hands are locked up in pain from the vibrations. A good old-fashioned wood handled maul works 10 times better.

[barney]

We used to have a tiny woodburning stove when I was growing up. I had to manually split 17 truckloads of wood every winter. That sucked. I got damn good at it though. One thing I always wondered though, is why they sell those stupid metal mauls. They even sell the same ones today. The head isn't shaped right and the handle negatively affects the balance. The blade is too wide, too flat, too big of an angle, and the whole thing is too heavy. Last but not least, the metal handle doesn't kill vibrations so after about 10 swings your hands are locked up in pain from the vibrations. A good old-fashioned wood handled maul works 10 times better.
AH.......the "Monster Maul", I think there is one of those in every garage in the United States. I also don't think any of them have that bright orange paint worn from the business end yet! But, if you were a first time wood splitter, buying your first maul, which one would you buy? The big orange, man sized, steel handled, guaranteed to split any LOG, "Monster Maul", or a whimpy little generic looking, wood handled, with no distinguishing features, gurantees..........or paint, "splitting maul"?

I'm with you 100%.....they ain't worth a $.25!.....Well, on a second thought, with steel prices where they are at the moment, they were a very wise investment! If they were all scrapped at once, steel prices would drop to under $100 a ton.:eek:

The maul below,is probably the best people powered, wood splitter in the world, But also comes with a hefty price tag due to the hand forging. but would be a good deal if, a person scrapped the "Monster Maul", and put the proceeds, toward the Gransfors Bruk.:D
Gransfors Bruk (http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/product_info.php/cPath/36_106_302/products_id/1897) http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/images/Gransfors-Maul-sm.jpg (http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/product_info.php/cPath/36_106_302/products_id/1897) 391-0450 $154.95

[Art]

I have a cheap, plastic handle maul and it works great, I think it was around $30. I guess the power behind it is what really matters.;):D

[corndogggy]

Anybody watch Axe Men last night? Surely I missed something... this storm came around and this guy was afraid that a tree would fall on his house, so this other guy was like, well, we'll just cut it down. Only problem was that the wind was swirling and they admitted that they really didn't have much control over which way the tree would fall, they were just hoping that the wind would blow it away from the house once it started to fall. Seems to me like they were just looking for an excuse to cut something down for the camera. :D

[C.L.Button]

I have a cheap, plastic handle maul and it works great, I think it was around $30. I guess the power behind it is what really matters.;):D

That and spliting it with the direction of the growth/grain. :D

[JDMiller]

Now that we managed to get corndoggy into a Stihl.... I have a question for any of ya'll chainsaw savy guys.

On my MS170.... its got a Stihl "picco" chain (narrow) with the rollamatic mini bar (14"). I bought it as a trim saw and it makes a smooth cut for limbing up. Probably wont change anytime soon but figured it would be nice to know what others think.

Question....

On a Stihl.... Whats the best chain?? Should a person go back with a Stihl bar & chain combo or is Oregon / other brands that much better??

[barney]

Now that we managed to get corndoggy into a Stihl.... I have a question for any of ya'll chainsaw savy guys.

On my MS170.... its got a Stihl "picco" chain (narrow) with the rollamatic mini bar (14"). I bought it as a trim saw and it makes a smooth cut for limbing up. Probably wont change anytime soon but figured it would be nice to know what others think.

Question....

On a Stihl.... Whats the best chain?? Should a person go back with a Stihl bar & chain combo or is Oregon / other brands that much better??
In my own opinion, there is no difference in chain quality, but the,( / ) stamped into each Stihl chain tooth, makes fileing by hand, so much easier. By keeping the angle precise, and to gauge, tooth length also. Oregon, may be doing this now too.

[KYBOY]

Yep, these stihl guys probably own a log splitter too because they are too weak to swing a maul.:D
You mean like this one?:D Not weak, smart...Or lazy,LMAO...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/kytrapper/Picture059.jpg

[corndogggy]

Can somebody explain why chains start getting dull pretty quick? I even bought a new higher kickback risk chain today, and I ripped through three 15-16" sized pieces of oak in about what seemed like 5 seconds each. After that, cutting times starting increasing quite a bit. My saw has been used about the amount it takes to burn 2 gallons of gas. Oil does seem to be slinging out properly. I don't know what else to look at, or even if this is normal or not.

[maxcam]

Can somebody explain why chains start getting dull pretty quick? I even bought a new higher kickback risk chain today, and I ripped through three 15-16" sized pieces of oak in about what seemed like 5 seconds each. After that, cutting times starting increasing quite a bit. My saw has been used about the amount it takes to burn 2 gallons of gas. Oil does seem to be slinging out properly. I don't know what else to look at, or even if this is normal or not.

There are alot of reasons that coulld result in your chain is not staying sharp....The most common reason is dirt and grime.....A log that has dirt caked into the bark will dull a saw quickly. It you so much as touch the earth with a chainsaw it will dull....I dont understand it I just know it happens......The best thing you can do is learn how to sharpen them yourself.....Buy a round file and just start.......If you dont trust yourself then get a file guide ........I sharpen my saw about every hour to hour and a half that I run it....If I hit a nail or touch the dirt I reach for my file and sharpen the chain........

If you are not doing any of these things then I would wonder if you have your chain set to loose or too tight.....

[daking]

When I decided to learn how to sharpen my own chain, one of the articles that I read on the subject said that a pretty fair rule of thumb is to touch up the chain after you've run a tank of gas through the saw. With the correct file (not a rat tail but a taperless chainsaw file of the correct diameter), I can touch my chain up in about 10 minutes. It's time well spent.

[maxcam]

To be honest, what have you got to loose by learning how to sharpen your own saw.....New chains are what $20 bucks now? A file is probably close to $5......Now all you need to do is open a cold one and get with it......It only take a few passes through each tooth to do the job. Just as in sharpening a pocket knife, its all in the angle. I think its easier than sharpening a pocket knife actually.....

[corndogggy]

To be honest, what have you got to loose by learning how to sharpen your own saw.....New chains are what $20 bucks now? A file is probably close to $5......Now all you need to do is open a cold one and get with it......It only take a few passes through each tooth to do the job. Just as in sharpening a pocket knife, its all in the angle. I think its easier than sharpening a pocket knife actually.....


I never said I didn't sharpen my own saw... all I said was that it gets dull really quick. It stops the real aggressive cutting with the huge chips of wood within 5 minutes. For each tank of gas I have to sharpen it at least twice. This even happened with a brand new chain so I know it isn't my sharpening technique.

[maxcam]

Are you forcing the saw through the wood.....Trying to see just how fast it will cut ?

This builds up heat in the chain and will dull the teeth much faster.....I prefer to let my saw cut at the pace it wants to.......Oak is a hard wood too.....I have see sparks fly out of oak while cutting them up.......That should tell you how much heat can be generated with a chainsaw....

[6.5x55swedish]

I am not reading through all of this thread, but what did you buy corndoggy?

If I had seen it sooner I would have recommended Dolmar. Best saw on the market, well balanced and runs really smooth.

I run a 9050 Jonsered which are actually just a red husquvarna. Stihl is the last saw I would ever own again. The high end commercial saws in the 800.00 and up price range are great saws, but the lower end homeowner and contractor models all have plastic crank cases and are not even worth waisting your money on.

Dolmar is a German company that has not been real popular in the usa except in the commercial logging communities of the north. It was one of the first companies to make chainsaws. They make The DCS for Makita (DCS stands for Dolmar Chain Saw).

As far as the chain sharpness goes, you probably should buy a better quality chain. Don't buy the pre-packaged chains, get one made up at a sawshop. Get Carlton or Oregon chain if you can. I run all day without sharpening chain, 4-5 tanks of gas, and I am cutting oak, walnut, and cherry mostly.

[corndogggy]

I am not reading through all of this thread, but what did you buy corndoggy?

Stihl MS 361, 20" pro model with lots of vibration reduction.

[corndogggy]

Are you forcing the saw through the wood.....Trying to see just how fast it will cut ?

Eh, probably. :D I thought those spikes were there for a reason. I butt it up against the log, let the spikes grab, then pull up on the handle. Maybe I need to quit doing that on logs that are already down.

[JDMiller]

Can somebody explain why chains start getting dull pretty quick? I even bought a new higher kickback risk chain today, and I ripped through three 15-16" sized pieces of oak in about what seemed like 5 seconds each. After that, cutting times starting increasing quite a bit. My saw has been used about the amount it takes to burn 2 gallons of gas. Oil does seem to be slinging out properly. I don't know what else to look at, or even if this is normal or not.

CD... a lot of times its what your cutting. If I'm remember correctly at the beginning of this thread you were cutting trees that were already down. If its been down for awhile and seasoned somewhat...especially oak... you will hit spots on a log that will be tougher to cut than others. You might slice through one section and be a smokin through the next cut. This does'nt help the sharpness of your chain either but might not be all blamed on the chain.

Sharpening the chain regular is necessary but be sure you file the rakes(depth guard) as well as the teeth.

[6.5x55swedish]

Eh, probably. I thought those spikes were there for a reason. I butt it up against the log, let the spikes grab, then pull up on the handle.
:D:D:DYup... that is what the bucking dogs are for....except the part about pulling up on the handle:D

If you want to saw faster you could always do a muffler modification on it:D

[daking]

Eh, probably. :D I thought those spikes were there for a reason. I butt it up against the log, let the spikes grab, then pull up on the handle. Maybe I need to quit doing that on logs that are already down.

Probably the best advice I ever got on the subject was from my grandfather. Whether whittling, sawing, cutting a steak or using a chisel, he had the same mantra: "let the damn tool do the work". I have found with every cutting tool that using the proper tool with moderate pressure and a sharp cutting surface works best. If you are forcing the tool, you are 1) misusing it, 2) using the wrong tool or 3) ain't keeping it sharp. Try less pressure and let the saw do the work.

By the way, Pop never chanted that mantra when I was using a shovel or a sledge hammer. Those were times when he expected ME to do the work.

[Bray]

I am not reading through all of this thread, but what did you buy corndoggy?

If I had seen it sooner I would have recommended Dolmar. Best saw on the market, well balanced and runs really smooth.

I run a 9050 Jonsered which are actually just a red husquvarna. Stihl is the last saw I would ever own again. The high end commercial saws in the 800.00 and up price range are great saws, but the lower end homeowner and contractor models all have plastic crank cases and are not even worth waisting your money on.

Dolmar is a German company that has not been real popular in the usa except in the commercial logging communities of the north. It was one of the first companies to make chainsaws. They make The DCS for Makita (DCS stands for Dolmar Chain Saw).

As far as the chain sharpness goes, you probably should buy a better quality chain. Don't buy the pre-packaged chains, get one made up at a sawshop. Get Carlton or Oregon chain if you can. I run all day without sharpening chain, 4-5 tanks of gas, and I am cutting oak, walnut, and cherry mostly.

My dad has had the same Sachs Dolmar saw for as long as I can remember. I know he has had it at least been 20 years. The man cuts wood 3 days a week during the winter and probably cuts over 100 loads per year. All for fun might I add. I was never one to enjoy cutting wood but the man will cut it, split it, and give it away.

[corndogggy]

The man cuts wood 3 days a week during the winter and probably cuts over 100 loads per year. All for fun might I add. I was never one to enjoy cutting wood but the man will cut it, split it, and give it away.

I had a computer programming instructor talk about this. He said when he was growing up, they had to cut firewood like crazy to stay warm. He educated himself so he could get a good job and told himself he'd never cut wood ever again unless he just wanted to. Problem is though, you stay around computers long enough and you just want to go out and cut some wood.

[longtimegone]

Stihl....but not an 'Easy Start'

[turkey]

If you were going to buy a cheap chainsaw just to keep around the house to use to cut some fire wood and trim a few things from time to time what would you buy?

[Ballard County Bounty]

Homelite! The only way to go for the money!

[daking]

The home-grade Husquvarna sold by Lowes. I'd rather have a serious chainsaw, but that Husky is a lot of saw for the mone...more than a homelite, but I've got a homelite that's as reliable as a teenage boy and a husky that always work.

[GSP]

http://www.kentuckyhunting.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61366&highlight=chainsaw&page=4

[bpfire]

I would buy 009 sthil for 199.99 best saw you could buy for around the house.

[perrymax]

Weather you use it for a living or 3 times a year, nothing stresses you out worse then a chainsaw that won't start or run. It's just not worth it to me to buy anything but a Husquvarna or Stihl. I'd buy a used one.

[Redfishman]

I've just cleared/cut trees from gustav and Ike. I can't add much to what has been already posted. I've got a 18" Stihl -MS250. It's worth every penny. Get a case- that the dealer may throw in where you can carry an extra chain-bar oil- cleanup rags.-an extra plug.
Stihl's performance is unequaled. It starts on the first pull and doesn't bog down on larger trees -whether it's Oak-hickory. Quite impressive

[treerat]

stihl first choice then husky,,,can't beat either one,,

[Art]

I hear there's a little known beast in the chainsaw world. It's a well kept secret, but the electric Ryobi is the BEST saw you can buy. I swear!

[6.5x55swedish]

I hear there's a little known beast in the chainsaw world. It's a well kept secret, but the electric Ryobi is the BEST saw you can buy. I swear!

I want to see some sources...and none of thes liberal news outlet type sources either:D

[itallushrt]

Stihl MS290 - Cut enough oak to keep a family of 50 warm for a long time. Thankful I have it right now also. Cut up lots of down trees over the last couple of days.

The intelligent engine management of the 280 is supposed to be nice though.

However, in my opinion there is no replacement for displacement. Plus Stihl is easy to find new chains, bars and someone to work on it should it need it.

[maxcam]

Stihl MS290 - Cut enough oak to keep a family of 50 warm for a long time. Thankful I have it right now also. Cut up lots of down trees over the last couple of days.

The intelligent engine management of the 280 is supposed to be nice though.

However, in my opinion there is no replacement for displacement. Plus Stihl is easy to find new chains, bars and someone to work on it should it need it.

Dude with a family that big I would have invested in a trip to the urologist to put a stop to the reproductive rate..... :D;)

[itallushrt]

Dude with a family that big I would have invested in a trip to the urologist to put a stop to the reproductive rate..... :D;)

haha. just a gross estimate of duty not an actual count! My family is quite small and our only children are both furry, use the bathroom outside and get put in cages when they are bad. :D